First backpacking trip
La Paz was my first backpacking trip.
Those who know me know that I have always enjoyed traveling, but until 2003 I was a typical tourist, using travel agencies, tourist buses, etc.
In 2004 I started looking for alternatives and my first trip outside of the 100% controlled scheme was to Jericoacoara (see here).
After this trip I started looking for things to do and discovered backpacking.
And the best thing about South America is going to Machu Picchu.
Since I really like planning and have my quirks, I created an itinerary to go to Machu Picchu.
At the time, the best thing Brazilians did with backpacks was to use the death train.
After some time that should have been spent, plus some of my quirks, like not going to the same place twice, I created the itinerary.
Itinerary.
I would fly to La Paz and then go by land to Cusco, Machu Picchu, Arequipa, go down to Chile and go to San Pedro de Atacama, go up to Bolivia via the Yuni Salt Flats and return to La Paz.
I invited my friends. Many of them wanted to go on this adventure, but in the end only Raul, who worked with me in the office, and another friend, Ranji, who worked in the New York office, decided to go.
None of us had any experience of the places we were going to visit and it was a completely unknown world to me.
There was no internet like there is today, so everything was much more difficult.
Communication was by phone (very expensive) and the most technologically advanced technology was email.
Well, with all the information we could get our hands on, we went.
Raul and I left Brazil and Randi left New York to meet up in La Paz.
I went with a mixture of fear, anxiety, challenge and I don’t know what else.
Arriving in La Paz
When the plane began to enter Bolivia, it was as if I were in another world. I had never seen anything like it in my travels.
The first sight of the mountain range was unforgettable and frightening, because I had a vague idea of the altitude problem, but I had never experienced it.
We arrived at El Alto airport, which is 4,100 meters above sea level.
The first impression was that the plane stopped in mid-air, because it began to descend and landed immediately.
The shock came as soon as I opened the plane door. About 10 minutes passed and I began to shake and tremble a lot.
I had to stop in the middle of the aisle because I couldn’t stand up.
I stayed like that for about 20 minutes and then I was able to walk. It was a strange moment.
As time went by, I adapted a little.
La Paz
Raul was feeling better and we managed to get a taxi to the city.
I soon felt better, since La Paz is at 3,600 meters.
We went to the hostel we had booked and there we had our first coca tea.
For me it was always very bad and had no effect, what I later learned is that since it is hot and drinking a lot of water helps with acclimatization.
We met Ranji in person for the first time at the hostel.
We had only communicated by phone, email, etc. at the time there was no video calling.
He was not feeling well at all, for him the altitude was worse, since NY is at sea level.
Climbing the stairs was simply torture.
But we were advised not to stand still, it is always better to move around to acclimatize.
So we went to try to eat something and get to know the city.
We went to a bar and it was very exotic, with drinks that had several animals enjoying themselves. YUCK.
Ranji liked the little snake bottle, with a drink that I don’t know what it was and I didn’t even want to find out.
That was the most we could do that day, we went to rest.
The next day, we went to see the city and take a walk. Since we were still weak, we only walked in the center and in La Paz, either going up or down, there’s no middle ground.
Altitude
One more day to acclimatize, but Raul wasn’t feeling well and Ranji got better.
I was as good as new, although I went slower on the climbs, but all the discomfort had disappeared.
On time I didn’t know, but today I know that I’m one of the lucky ones who adapts very well to the altitude. I only feel a little weak the first few days and nothing else.
Tiwanaku
One more day to acclimatize and we went to Tiwanaku.
First we stopped at the viewpoint, near El Alto at 4000 meters to see La Paz.
A very arid view. I was always used to lots of greenery, beaches, forests, and I was impressed by the harshness of the place.
Everything is very cold, dry, without vegetation, lots of rocks.
For those who don’t know Tiwanaku
Tiwanaku is a pre-Columbian archaeological site, near Lake Titicaca, in the highlands, at an altitude of 3,850 m, in the Province of Ingavi, Department of La Paz. It is one of the largest sites in South America.
Its age is subject to many doubts, with some saying it is 17,000 years old and others 3,000.
It is the spiritual and political center of the Tiwanaku Culture that flourished as a planned city between 400 AD and 900 AD.
The surface remains currently cover about 4 square kilometers and include decorated ceramics, monumental structures and megalithic blocks.
The end of this strong and peaceful civilization led to the emergence of several Aymara kingdoms called Colla, which were conquered by the Incas. The Incas absorbed much of the Tiahuanaco culture and declared themselves heirs of this civilization to legitimize their power.
Chacaltaya
On our last day of acclimatization, we went to something more challenging: Chacaltaya, at an altitude of 5,430 meters.
Since Raul was still not feeling well, he rested and Ranji and I went.
Chacaltaya is 5,421 meters high and is 40 km from the city of La Paz.
From there, you have a beautiful view of the snow-capped Huayna Potosí peak (6,088 m).
Although the altitude is very high, it is very peaceful, as you can drive to the ski resort at 5,000 meters.
Today, it is closed because, due to global warming, there is no more ice.
Then, we went to the summit, about 500 meters above sea level.
A good part of the group couldn’t make it and preferred to stay at the ski resort enjoying the view.
I couldn’t wait to get to the summit. Up until that point, it was the highest altitude I had reached in the world.
After a while, Renji arrived. We returned to La Paz and went to rest.
We rested for another day to acclimatize and then continued our journey.
La Paz and Copacabana.
There were a lot of protests going on in Bolivia.
The peasants were against the government and many of the main roads were blocked.
So we took some secondary roads.
I had never been so scared, because besides being in the middle of protests, when we left the main road, which was already not much, we went through situations where it was very dangerous to fall down cliffs.
But fortunately nothing serious happened and we arrived in Copacabana late in the afternoon.
Copacabana is located on Lake Titicaca, known for its religious festivals and red-roofed houses.
It is the starting point for a tour to explore Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna, islands with sacred Inca archaeological sites.
In the central square, Plaza 2 de Febrero, is the Catedral de la Virgen de la Candelaria, with a sculpture of the Virgen de la Candelaria.
The day was clear and we went to the islands.
Isla del Sol
There are several temples and sacred sites on the island, most of them in ruins.
You can find sacrificial tables in honor of Pacha Mama.
The island is full of captivating myths, and it is worth talking to a local to hear some stories.
There are 3 villages: Yumani (south region), Challapampa (north coast) and Ch’alla. In all the villages there are simple and family-run accommodations.
Isla de la Luna
Located 8km from Isla del Sol, the small island was dedicated to the cult of femininity.
Legend has it that the most beautiful women in the region, the “Virgins of the Sun”, lived on the island.
They would be sacrificed on Isla del Sol. In the Inca Empire, the only man who could set foot on those lands was the emperor.
The island’s biggest attraction is the ruins of the Palace of the Virgins of the Sun, on the north coast.
If you want to spend the night on the islands, you have to be prepared.
It is very cold and you should check if there is a place to stay in advance, as accommodation is scarce and very simple.
We went back to sleep in Copacabana.
Isla del Sol
Time to cross the border and head to Peru ( Puno) e o lago Titicaca.