Barreirinhas: The gateway to the Lençóis Maranhenses.
Barreirinhas is, without a doubt, the beating heart of the Lençóis Maranhenses. Although Santo Amaro and Atins have their wonders, Barreirinhas is still the choice of most visitors.
It was there that I experienced one of the most vibrant parts of my trip through Maranhão, with days full of sun, sand, crystal-clear lagoons, and that good energy.
Arriving in Barreirinhas
I left Santo Amaro very early. The road to Barreirinhas takes about two hours, a peaceful, paved route, surrounded by simple villages, winding rivers, and typical cerrado vegetation.
For those coming directly from São Luís, the journey is a little longer, about four hours by car.
Upon arrival, I felt that small-town atmosphere, but with intense activity. The streets are narrow, the houses colorful, and the coming and going of tourists is constant. The people are welcoming, always with a ready smile and willing to help. I quickly realized that Barreirinhas is much more bustling than Santo Amaro and Atins. There are more people, more options, and, of course, much more energy.
Despite the hustle and bustle, it’s hard to resist the charm of the place. The city has complete infrastructure, with comfortable hotels and guesthouses, good restaurants, active commerce, and many agencies that organize tours through the Lençóis Maranhenses. At night, the town center comes alive with small shops, bars, and live music.
Barrerinhas
Exploring the Lençóis Maranhenses
The main reason for being in Barreirinhas was to continue exploring the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park. The tours usually start early in the morning, in 4×4 vehicles, which cross long sandy trails to reach the most famous lagoons.
Unlike Santo Amaro, access to the dunes from Barreirinhas is longer. The route passes through a kind of “sand forest,” a transition area where the coastal and cerrado vegetation mixes with the dunes. It’s a curious, almost magical landscape.
It’s worth remembering that there are no food facilities inside the park. Everything needs to be brought from Barreirinhas, including drinks, fruits, and snacks. The cars usually have cooler boxes, so it’s good to plan ahead before leaving.
Bonita Lagoon
This was, without a doubt, one of the most memorable excursions of the trip. The Lagoa Bonita circuit begins with a journey of about 15 km in a 4×4 vehicle, departing from Barreirinhas. Since March 2025, it is no longer necessary to cross the Preguiças River by ferry, as a new bridge facilitates access.
After the car ride, comes the most intense part: the climb over the dunes, now with a wooden staircase that helps a lot. At the top, the view is breathtaking. Seeing that sea of white sand punctuated by crystal-clear lagoons is an indescribable feeling.
Walking among the dunes gives a feeling of total freedom. It’s like being on another planet, where only the wind and silence keep you company. After the walk, swimming in the warm waters of Lagoa Bonita is simply delightful. I chose to do the tour in the afternoon to watch the sunset — and what a spectacle! The sky painting itself in golden and pink tones was one of those moments that remain etched in memory.
Blue Lagoon
The next day, I went to visit the famous Blue Lagoon. The journey is also done in a 4×4 vehicle, a 10 km route that takes about 40 minutes. Despite the name, the lagoon isn’t always blue; it depends on the time of year, the light, and even the number of visitors. But the beauty of the place makes up for everything.
The interesting thing is that the scenery is constantly changing. No two trips to the Lençóis Maranhenses are the same. The lagoons form and disappear depending on the rainfall, and this makes each experience unique. The tour can be done in the morning or in the afternoon, but if you can, go early to enjoy it more peacefully.
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Boat trip on the Preguiças River
One of the most relaxing moments of the trip was the boat ride along the Preguiças River. The name couldn’t be more appropriate; the pace is tranquil and the scenery, mesmerizing.
The boat stops at several charming spots: Vassouras, Mandacaru, and Caburé.
In Vassouras, the capuchin monkeys steal the show. In Mandacaru, I climbed the lighthouse and was rewarded with an incredible panoramic view of the dunes and the river.
Finally, in Caburé, the strip of sand that separates the river from the sea is simply fascinating. It’s the perfect place to have lunch, relax, and let time pass without haste.
Vassouras
Mandacaru
Caburé
Where to Stay and What to Eat in Barreirinhas
Barreirinhas offers accommodations for all styles – from simple guesthouses to comfortable hotels by the river.
At night, the town center is delightful. You can walk around, visit small shops, and choose a good restaurant. I tried the traditional fish with coconut milk, a well-made tapioca, and, of course, a caipirinha with local fruits. A perfect combination to end the day.
Tips for making the most of Barreirinhas:
- Best time to visit: June to September, when the lagoons are full.
- Clothing: Bring light clothing, a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses.
- Tours: Hire accredited guides; they know the best times and routes.
Barreirinhas: an experience to cherish
Of all the places I visited in the Lençóis Maranhenses, Barreirinhas was the one that surprised me the most with its mix of lush nature and good infrastructure.
It’s a practical starting point and, at the same time, full of soul.
The Lençóis Maranhenses are one of the highlights of the Route of Emotions.
After a few intense days there, I continued my journey towards Atins, the third base in the Lençóis.
But Barreirinhas remained in my memory, with its sunsets over the dunes, its crystal-clear lagoons, and the welcoming smiles of those who live surrounded by natural beauty.