You never forget your first backpacking trip.
La Paz was the starting point for my first backpacking trip. Until then, I was a classic tourist. I used a travel agency, followed a set itinerary and traveled by tourist bus. Nothing against that style, but something inside me wanted more freedom. More improvisation. And more intensity.
It was in 2004 that I decided to break out of the rigid format. My first experience outside the traditional itinerary was in Jericoacoara (I tell you about it in this other post). After that, I started looking for a different way to explore the world. And that’s how backpacking came into my life. From then on, everything changed.
Since I’m methodical and love to plan, I put together a complete itinerary with a dream destination in the center: Machu Picchu. And of course, passing through La Paz. After all, if you’re going to start backpacking, you might as well start in one of the most iconic places in South America.
Planned Itinerary, Backpacking.
At that time, the most adventurous route among Brazilian backpackers included the famous Death Train. I wanted something different. Besides, I have a strange habit: I avoid repeating routes. So, I came up with a circular route:
Arrival in La Paz, Bolivia
Offshore to Cusco and Machu Picchu
Onward to Arequipa
Descent into the Atacama Desert in Chile
Return to La Paz through Bolivia via Salar de Uyuni
Return to La Paz
I invited some friends. Many were excited, but in the end, only Raul, my office colleague, and Ranji, who worked in New York, agreed to the adventure. None of us had any experience with the destinations. In fact, it was all completely new. And, to make it even more challenging, in 2004 the internet was still in its infancy. There were no videos on YouTube or blogs with detailed itineraries. Information was circulated via the phone (expensive!) and e-mail.
Arrival in La Paz: Between fear and wonder.
We met in La Paz. Raul and I had come from Brazil, while Ranji had come straight from New York. The mix of emotions was intense: fear, anxiety, excitement and a dose of “will I be able to do it?”
The impact began on the plane, as we flew over Bolivia. The landscape was completely different from anything I had ever seen. The Andes Mountains appeared like an imposing natural wall. And the altitude? Frightening.
We landed at El Alto airport, at 4,100 meters. The sensation was bizarre. The plane seemed to float instead of landing. When I got out of the aircraft, everything went strange. Within a few minutes, I started shaking non-stop. I couldn’t even stand up. I stayed there, in the airport corridor, recovering for almost half an hour. It was my first contact with altitude sickness and it wouldn’t be the last.
First Days in La Paz: Getting Used to the Heights
Raul was feeling better, so we managed to take a taxi to the city of La Paz, which is about 3,600 meters above sea level. It doesn’t seem like much, but it made all the difference. The air was still thin, but the sensation was less unpleasant.
We stayed at a hostel that we had booked in advance. There, we tried the famous coca tea, a traditional Bolivian tea. I have to admit that I didn’t like it. I never thought it would work. Only later did I find out that it actually helps with hydration and adaptation, especially if you drink a lot of water with it.
At the hostel, we met Ranji in person for the first time. Until then, we had only spoken by phone and email. He was suffering even more from the altitude. New York is practically at sea level, so the contrast was brutal for him. Climbing a simple flight of stairs was torture.
We were told not to stand still. So, despite feeling unwell, we went out to eat and take a walk. We ended up at a very exotic bar, where they served drinks with preserved animals inside the bottles. Ranji was even interested in a little jar with a snake, but I stayed away.
Exploring La Paz at a leisurely pace.
The next day, we went for a walk around the center of La Paz. We still weren’t 100%, so we stayed in flat areas. It was difficult, because La Paz is a city where you’re always going up or down. There’s no middle ground.
Another day passed and I finally started to feel better. I discovered that I’m one of the lucky ones who adapt easily to the altitude. I only feel a little weak the first few days and then I’m fine.
A Journey Through Time: Tiwanaku
On our last day in La Paz, we decided to take on a bigger challenge: Chacaltaya, a mountain that is 5,421 meters high and only 40 km from the city. Raul was still not feeling well, so I went with Ranji.
We drove up to 5,000 meters, where there was an old ski resort. Today it is closed due to the melting of the glaciers. The last part was on foot, to the summit.
It was the highest altitude I had ever reached. I really wanted to reach the top, and I did. It was one of the most memorable moments of the trip. From there, you have a beautiful view of the snow-capped Huayna Potosí Peak (6,088 m).
A good part of the group didn’t make it and preferred to stay at the ski resort enjoying the view. We returned to La Paz and went to rest.
We rested for another day to acclimatize and then continued our journey.
Chacaltaya
On our last day of acclimatization, we went to something more challenging: Chacaltaya, at an altitude of 5,430 meters. Since Raul was still not feeling well, he rested and Ranji and I went.
Chacaltaya is 5,421 meters high and is 40 km from the city of La Paz. From there, you have a beautiful view of the snow-capped Huayna Potosí peak (6,088 m).
Although the altitude is very high, it is very peaceful, as you can drive to the ski resort at 5,000 meters. Today, it is closed because, due to global warming, there is no more ice.
Then, we went to the summit, about 500 meters above sea level. A good part of the group couldn’t make it and preferred to stay at the ski resort enjoying the view.
I couldn’t wait to get to the summit. Up until that point, it was the highest altitude I had reached in the world.After a while, Ranji arrived. We returned to La Paz and went to rest.
We rested for another day to acclimatize and then continued our journey.
From La Paz to Copacabana: Roads and Emotions
Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna: Mysticism on Lake Titicaca.
With the blue sky inviting us, we set sail for the islands. Isla del Sol is full of Inca ruins, temples and legends. There are three main towns: Yumani, Challapampa and Ch’alla, where you can stay in simple, family-run houses. Walking around there is like going back in time.
Then, we headed to Isla de la Luna. Dedicated to the feminine, it was inhabited by the so-called “Virgins of the Sun”. The main attraction is the ruins of the Palace of the Virgins of the Sun. Legend has it that only the emperor was allowed to set foot there.
If you want to spend the night on the islands, be prepared. It is very cold, the accommodations are basic and the facilities are limited. We went back to sleep in Copacabana.
Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna: Mysticism on Lake Titicaca.
With the blue sky inviting us, we set sail for the islands. Isla del Sol is full of Inca ruins, temples and legends. There are three main towns: Yumani, Challapampa and Ch’alla, where you can stay in simple, family-run houses. Walking around there is like going back in time.
Then, we headed to Isla de la Luna. Dedicated to the feminine, it was inhabited by the so-called “Virgins of the Sun”. The main attraction is the ruins of the Palace of the Virgins of the Sun. Legend has it that only the emperor was allowed to set foot there.
If you want to spend the night on the islands, be prepared. It is very cold, the accommodations are basic and the facilities are limited. We went back to sleep in Copacabana.
Isla del Sol
Heading to Peru.
After this immersion in Bolivia, we crossed the border into Peru, heading to Puno and the rest of our itinerary. But it all started in La Paz. The city that introduced me to the world of backpacking. An intense beginning, full of challenges, but one that planted the seed for all the trips that would come later.