Parnaíba: Starting point for the Delta and the coast of Piauí.
Continuing on the Route of Emotions and leaving the Lençóis Maranhenses behind, it’s now time to cross the state into Piauí.
Parnaíba was one of those pleasant surprises that the road reserves. I already knew that the Piauí coastline was small, but I didn’t imagine how much beauty could fit into those 66 kilometers of coast. The city is the beating heart of this region and the perfect base to explore its main attraction: the Parnaíba Delta and the neighboring beaches.
Arrival in Parnaíba
The journey is peaceful, taking about 3 to 4 hours from Barreirinhas. Parnaíba is much larger than the previous cities, but still has a pleasant coastal inland atmosphere. Quiet, but full of life. Parnaíba has that good mix of history, nature, and Northeastern hospitality.
Beaches near Parnaíba
Although the city center doesn’t have a beach, you only need to drive a few kilometers to find true paradises.
- Pedra do Sal beach. It’s very close and is a meeting point for locals. Good for surfers and perfect for enjoying the sunset from the top of the rocks.
- Coqueiro beach. Located in Luís Correia, it’s one of the most beautiful on the coast. White sand, calm sea, and excellent seafood restaurants.
- Macapá beach. A little further away, but ideal for those seeking peace and nature.
Each of them has its own charm, and the best part is that you can visit them all in a few days.
Historic center and culture
I reserved an afternoon to walk through the Historic Center of Parnaíba, and the Porto das Barcas was my favorite spot. The old buildings, the renovated warehouses, the handicraft shops, and the bars with live music create a unique atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where time seems to slow down, and that’s great.
I also visited the Maritime Museum, small but full of stories about riverside life and navigation in the delta.
Flavors of Parnaíba
The cuisine of Piauí is delicious and full of character. I tried the traditional Piauí fish stew, crab in coconut milk, and a chilled buriti juice that was a welcome treat in the afternoon heat. The gastronomy here has that homemade touch, with seasoning and affection.
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Tour of the Parnaíba Delta
The main reason for my visit was to see the Parnaíba Delta, one of the only open-sea deltas in the world, along with the Nile (Egypt) and the Mekong (Vietnam). The scenery is breathtaking: islands, mangroves, dunes, and channels form a true natural labyrinth.
I took a speedboat tour departing from Porto dos Tatus, in Ilha Grande.
The boat glides between mangroves, dunes, and winding channels. With each turn, the landscape changes. I saw crabs, various birds, and even alligators sunbathing on the banks.
The flight of the scarlet ibises: the red spectacle of the Parnaíba Delta
Among all the moments of the trip along the coast of Piauí, one of them remained etched in my memory: the flight of the scarlet ibises. This natural spectacle happens in the late afternoon and it’s impossible not to be moved by the beauty that fills the sky.
The beginning of the spectacle
The speedboat was slowly gliding through the delta’s channels when the sun began to set on the horizon. The air was calm, the silence only broken by the sound of the water hitting the hull and the distant cries of the birds approaching.
Suddenly, the guide pointed upwards: “Look there, the scarlet ibises!”
And then, the show began.
At first there were only a few, and then hundreds of red ibises flew over the mangroves towards the islands where they sleep. The intense red of the feathers contrasts with the green of the forest and the golden sunset, creating a scene of almost unbelievable colors.
I discovered that scarlet ibises are born with gray or grayish plumage.
Scarlet ibises are birds typical of mangrove regions and feed on small crustaceans rich in pigments called carotenoids, which give the plumage this vibrant red color. The Parnaíba Delta is one of the last refuges for these birds in Brazil, and responsible observation is fundamental to their preservation.
The sunset reflecting on the calm waters of the delta was of a beauty that defied words. It’s the kind of moment that remains etched in your memory.
Best time to visit Parnaíba
Traveling between July and December is the best option. The weather is drier, the sky is blue, and the delta is at its best.
However, if you come between January and May, be prepared to see everything much greener — and the full rivers give a different charm to the trip.