Santo Amaro do Maranhão: The most authentic side of Lençóis Maranhenses
My true journey through the Route of Emotions began in Santo Amaro do Maranhão. After much planning, I decided to explore the three main Lençóis bases—Santo Amaro do Maranhão, Barreirinhas, and Atins—to experience the essence of each. And I can say: starting in Santo Amaro do Maranhão was the best choice.
Santo Amaro do Maranhão is the least explored destination of the three, but also the most charming. As soon as I arrived, I understood why many travelers consider it the best-kept secret of the Lençóis Maranhenses. The city is practically inside the park, which makes it easy to access the most incredible and preserved lagoons.
At every turn, a landscape of golden dunes, crystal-clear lagoons, and a breathtaking sunset awaits. Furthermore, the local hospitality is genuine. You can feel the warmth in every smile, something rare to find in highly touristy destinations.
Although Barreirinhas has more infrastructure and is the starting point for many, those who want to experience the true spirit of Lençóis must visit Santo Amaro do Maranhão. It was there that I felt the perfect balance of nature, tranquility, and authenticity.
How to get to Santo Amaro do Maranhão and the best time to visit
I left São Luís on a shared transfer with Mirotur. The trip takes about 4.5 hours along highways BR-135, BR-402, and MA-320. In 2025, I found the entire road paved and in good condition, which made the journey much easier.
It’s also possible to arrive by private transfer, in addition to public transportation, or by car, which offers more freedom to explore the region.
I chose to travel in August, the perfect time to visit the lagoons, as they are full after the rainy season. Typically, between June and September, the scenery is at its most beautiful, with shades of blue and green that seem straight out of a dream.
What to do in Santo Amaro do Maranhão
Among so many attractions, I selected the tours that most marked my time in Santo Amaro do Maranhão:
Gaivota Lagoon and Andorinha Lagoon Tour
This was my first experience with paradise. Gaivota Lagoon, the setting for the film Casa de Areia (2004), is simply spectacular. Andorinha Lagoon, on the other hand, left me speechless; its colors and the reflection of the dunes in the water are mesmerizing.
I went in the late afternoon, and as the sun began to set, the sky transformed into an orange hue. A spectacle of nature unforgettable.
Betânia Circuit
If there’s one tour that sums up the spirit of Santo Amaro do Maranhão, it’s the Betânia Circuit. We passed the Cajueirinho and Junco lagoons in the morning, and then continued on to the village of Betânia.
Since the Alegre River was low, we crossed by car. It was a fun and unique experience. Lunch at the Recanto Betânia restaurant was another highlight: the shrimp with garlic and oil was simply irresistible. Afterward, I relaxed in a hammock by the river, lulled by the sounds of nature.
Emendadas Lagoon
Emendadas Lagoon is one of the landmarks of Lençóis Maranhenses. The tour includes a leisurely walk through the dunes. Everything is done at a leisurely pace, with time to enjoy each lake and the wonderful scenery. The walk is open to everyone, and those who wish can climb the surrounding dunes to better appreciate the landscape.
The landscape changes constantly, with lagoons, sandbanks, and reflections that seem to be from another planet.
The wind cools the sand and makes it firmer, making the walk easier.
I stayed until sunset, and on the way back, the starry sky magically completed the scenery. It was one of the most memorable moments of the trip.
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Where to stay and what to eat in Santo Amaro do Maranhão
Santo Amaro do Maranhão is small and has a simple yet charming structure. The inns are cozy and the atmosphere is completely rustic, which is part of the place’s charm. I stayed at the Portal do Paraíso chalet, which was very comfortable and ideal for those seeking tranquility.
It’s a good idea to book in advance, especially during high season, as accommodations are still limited.
At mealtime, immerse yourself in the flavors of Maranhão. Fresh fish and seafood are the stars of the menu. Try local dishes; that’s how I discovered delicious and authentic combinations.
Practical tips for enjoying Santo Amaro do Maranhão
- Wear light clothing, sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses.
- Bring insect repellent and plenty of water, especially on long hikes; there’s nowhere to buy anything inside the park.
- Check the weather forecast and the water levels of the lagoons before traveling.
- All tours within the park must be booked with accredited guides and agencies.
- Although almost everywhere accepts credit cards, carry some cash. I had trouble using cash, as everyone uses credit cards or PIX.
Oh, and if you go to the village of Betânia, be aware that you’ll need to cross the Alegre River. When the water level is high, the crossing is done by canoe. I was lucky: the river was low, and I was able to cross by car, a fun and unexpected experience.
Exploring Santo Amaro do Maranhão was like diving into an untouched piece of paradise.
It’s the kind of destination that captivates with its simplicity, natural beauty, and welcoming atmosphere. And best of all: even though it’s part of the famous Lençóis Maranhenses, it still retains the sense of discovery that every traveler seeks.
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