São Luís. History, culture and flavors
I decided to begin the Route of Emotions in São Luís, and I couldn’t have made a better choice. From the moment I arrived, I felt immersed in a city brimming with history, music, and color.
The capital of Maranhão, known as the “Brazilian Athens” and also the “Brazilian Jamaica,” is a unique place.
The cobblestone streets, colonial mansions, and the infectious sound of reggae create an unforgettable atmosphere that captivated me right away.
Brief history of São Luís
As I walked through the historic center, I realized how history lives on in every corner. São Luís was founded in 1612 by the French, in honor of King Louis XIII. However, this French presence was short-lived, as just two years later, the Portuguese regained control and consolidated the city within the colonial empire.
During the colonial period, the city gained importance due to the sugarcane and cotton booms, which ensured wealth for the local elite. This economic boom left impressive marks: mansions covered in Portuguese tiles, now recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, and cobblestone streets that stand the test of time.
In the 19th century, São Luís became known as the “Brazilian Athens,” thanks to writers like Gonçalves Dias and Aluísio Azevedo, who helped to promote Maranhão literature. In the 20th century, the title of “Brazilian Jamaica” was consolidated, as the city became the largest reggae hub outside Jamaica itself.
This blend of French, Portuguese, African, and Indigenous influences shaped São Luís’s cultural identity. To this day, it manifests itself in its music, bumba-meu-boi (a traditional dance), popular festivals, and, of course, in its delicious cuisine, characterized by seafood and strong spices.
Historic Center and Maranhão Flavors
My experience in São Luís’s historic center was like a journey back in time. Walking along the cobblestone streets transported me directly to the colonial period. The tiled mansions are a spectacle in themselves, and places like the Palácio dos Leões (Lions Palace), the Sé Cathedral, and the Maranhão Historical and Artistic Museum complete the tour.
On Portugal Street, in the heart of downtown, the architecture is impressive in every detail.
I stopped for lunch and tried typical dishes that are part of the city’s soul: cuxá rice, fish in shrimp sauce, and the traditional shrimp pie. A true explosion of flavors!
In the afternoon, I explored the Praia Grande neighborhood, full of craft shops, perfect for those who like to take home unique souvenirs. In the evening, I tried the famous Cafofo da Tia Dica, a traditional restaurant with flavorful dishes.
Then, of course, I spent the evening at reggae bars, which are an essential part of São Luís’s nightlife. For those looking for options, there are several reggae clubs scattered throughout the city, each with its own unique atmosphere.
To finish, I chose a restaurant overlooking São Marcos Bay. I had a juçara caipirinha, the region’s signature açaí, and enjoyed the city’s illuminated scenery.
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Beaches and reggae by the sea
The next day, I decided to explore the coast. São Marcos Beach is the busiest, perfect for soaking up the city’s laid-back vibe. But, as I prefer quieter environments, I also visited Calhau Beach and Olho d’Água. The sea, the white sand, and the beachfront restaurants created the perfect setting for relaxation.
For lunch, I indulged in fresh fish accompanied by grilled shrimp. It was also at this time that I tried the famous guaraná Jesus. It’s famous, but I confess I didn’t particularly like its sweet flavor and intense pink color.
In the afternoon, I went to Lagoa da Jansen, one of the best spots to watch the sunset in São Luís. The contrast between the modernity of the waterfront and the city’s tradition is fascinating. And, of course, in the evening, I ended the day at another reggae bar, Bar do Nelson, a landmark for those who enjoy the rhythm. In São Luís, reggae isn’t just music: it’s part of the way of life.
Exploring Alcântara
Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to explore Alcântara.
It’s a trip that requires a lot of energy. The boat ride takes about an hour and a half from Praia Grande Pier.
This depends on the tides, leaving only about two or three hours to visit Alcântara. Which is enough.
However, Alcântara is a charming colonial city, located at the entrance to the Legal Amazon.
It prides itself on being the first historic city in the Amazon to be recognized as a National Heritage Site by IPHAN. Its cobblestone streets, old mansions, and colonial churches tell stories of a rich past and barons who held power.
Walking through Alcântara is a peaceful stroll full of discoveries. Its main attractions are the Main Square, the Town Hall and Jail, the Historical and Artistic Museum of Alcântara, the Casa do Divino, and some of the colonial churches. The calm, almost timeless atmosphere contrasts with the hustle and bustle of São Luís.
Now it’s time to continue the Emotions Route towards Santo Amaro.