Route of Emotions: one of the most fascinating routes in Brazil
The Rota das Emoções (Route of Emotions) was born from a partnership between Sebrae (Brazilian State Department of Agriculture) and the Ministry of Tourism, aiming to promote sustainable tourism in one of Brazil’s most naturally beautiful regions. Since then, the route has established itself as one of the most intense and comprehensive experiences for those exploring the Northeast.
Traveling the Rota das Emoções (Route of Emotions) is a journey that blends adventure, contemplation, and local culture. Along the approximately 500 km that crosses 14 municipalities in three states—Ceará, Piauí, and Maranhão—travelers encounter landscapes that seem to have come straight out of a dream. There are paradisiacal beaches, immense dunes, crystal-clear lagoons, preserved mangroves, and welcoming communities.
Among the most famous spots are three icons of Brazilian tourism: Jericoacoara, the Parnaíba Delta, and the Lençóis Maranhenses. However, the route goes much further, holding secrets at each stop, with unique experiences that change according to the landscape and culture of each location.
A route that has evolved over time
Even before it received its official name in 2005, many people had already ventured along this route. However, conditions were more precarious. Today, the reality is different. Roads have been improved, cities have gained infrastructure, and traveling between the three states has become much easier. Thus, the Route of Emotions has become a comprehensive itinerary, which can be explored by both independent travelers and those who prefer organized packages.
The name lives up to the experience. Each stop brings a different feeling: the impact of the Lençóis dunes, the enchantment of the Jeri lagoons, the fascination of the ibises flying in the Delta. It’s the combination of adventure, human contact, and freedom that only a good road trip can provide.
The route can begin in Fortaleza, Ceará, or São Luís, Maranhão, connecting the extremes with roads, sandy trails, and boat crossings. Along the way, you’ll encounter fishing villages, nearly deserted beaches, hidden lagoons, and the welcoming smiles of local communities. It’s not just about the scenery, but also the culture, as the route is rich in crafts, traditional cuisine, and Northeastern traditions that enchant visitors in every town.
Main attractions of the Route of Emotions
Now let’s get to what really matters: the highlights that make the Route of emotions an unforgettable itinerary.
Jericoacoara (Ceará)
Jericoacoara, or simply Jeri, is one of Brazil’s most famous destinations. Located on the Ceará coast, the village has maintained its rustic essence even with the growth of tourism. Sandy streets, the absence of streetlights, and a relaxed atmosphere give the place a special charm.
Despite preserving this atmosphere, Jeri boasts cozy inns and high-quality restaurants. It’s a village that combines simplicity and comfort, offering visitors both a fishing atmosphere and top-notch infrastructure.
The landscapes are breathtaking. Jericoacoara Beach invites relaxation, while the Sunset Dune attracts visitors daily for an unforgettable spectacle. Pedra Furada, the village’s landmark, can be accessed by trail or by walking along the beach during low tide. The Lagoa Azul and Lagoa do Paraíso lagoons are true oases of crystal-clear waters, perfect for relaxing in the famous in-water hammocks. For the adventurous, sports like kitesurfing and windsurfing are part of the scene, taking advantage of the constant winds that blow strongly between August and December.
Jeri’s highlights include:
Pedra Furada: the town’s symbol, accessible by foot.
Pôr do Sol Dune: a must-see to see the daily spectacle.
Lagoa Azul and Lagoa do Paraíso: crystal-clear, calm waters for relaxation.
Water sports: world-class kitesurfing and windsurfing.
Parnaíba Delta (Piauí)
The Parnaíba Delta is the only open-ocean delta in the Americas, a natural treasure formed by islands, dunes, and channels that meet the ocean. A boat trip is essential and reveals breathtaking scenery at every turn.
Among the unmissable experiences are:
The flight of the scarlet ibises: at dusk, thousands of red birds cover the sky in an unforgettable spectacle.
The Canary Islands: a traditional community living in harmony with the ecosystem.
The igarapés: narrow canals surrounded by mangroves, perfect for observing flora and fauna.
It is one of the most authentic parts of the Route of Emotions, less explored by mass tourism, and precisely for that reason, so special.
Lençóis Maranhenses (Maranhão)
The Lençóis Maranhenses National Park is the culmination of the Route of Emotions. The white dunes stretch as far as the eye can see, and between them, freshwater lagoons form after the rains, creating a surreal landscape.
The main bases for exploring Lençóis are:
Barreirinhas: the most popular entrance, with good infrastructure.
Atins: a quiet village, ideal for those seeking peace and quiet.
Santo Amaro: less visited, but with its ever-filling lagoons and stunning scenery.
Highlights include Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita in Barreirinhas, Canto do Atins with its gastronomy and water sports, and Lagoas das Andorinhas, da Gaivota, and Emendada in Santo Amaro. Walking through this place feels like you’re on another planet.
The 14 cities of the Route of Emotions
The Route of Emotions isn’t limited to the three major icons. The route passes through 14 municipalities, each with unique attractions, forming a mosaic of experiences. The route typically begins in São Luís or Fortaleza, serving as entry and exit points.
São Luís (Maranhão)
The capital of Maranhão is known as the “Island of Love” and enchants with its blend of history, culture, and nature. The Historic Center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, boasts more than 3,500 colonial mansions with Portuguese tiles. Furthermore, the city exudes culture through its music, cuisine, and crafts.
Savoring dishes like cuxá rice, shrimp pie, and sururu is a way to immerse yourself in the flavors of Maranhão. At the end of the day, beaches like Calhau and Ponta d’Areia offer great places to relax.
Fortaleza (Ceará)
Fortaleza is vibrant and welcoming. The city combines famous urban beaches, such as Praia do Futuro, with a vibrant cultural scene at Dragão do Mar and its craft fairs. The gastronomy is another strong point, with enchanting fish and seafood.
Furthermore, Fortaleza is a gateway to nearby destinations, such as Cumbuco and Jericoacoara. I did the Rota das Emoções (Route of Emotions) starting in São Luís and ending in Fortaleza, and I highly recommend this route. This way, travelers can experience Lençóis Maranhenses right at the beginning, when the lagoons are fullest, and save the beaches and nightlife of Ceará for last.
Maranhão:
- Santo Amaro (MA): The city is famous for having the most beautiful lagoons in Lençóis Maranhenses, such as Lagoa da Gaivota (where the film “Casa de Areia” was filmed), Lagoa da Betânia, which can be visited on a full-day tour, and others.
- Barreirinhas (MA): 254 km from the capital, São Luís, the city is the gateway to the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park. It offers good infrastructure, several hotels and inns, quality restaurants, developed shops, and many travel agencies that take travelers on tours.
- Paulino Neves (MA): It boasts unique attractions provided by the transition from the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park to the Parnaíba Delta, with its indentations and beautiful landscapes provided by the course of rivers, rapids, and crystal-clear lagoons, as well as beaches surrounded by dunes and native vegetation.
- Tutóia (MA): It combines the best of two tourist destinations: the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park and the Parnaíba Delta, with attractions from the large and small Lençóis Maranhenses, and the beauty of the Delta’s unique native vegetation. As a fertile ground for water sports and windy conditions, the location is ideal for adventure tourism.
- Araioses (MA): The last destination on the route, before entering Piauí. It boasts several breathtaking islands. It’s perfect for those seeking ecotourism. There, you can enjoy boat trips, canoeing, kayaking, sailing, and even swimming in the lagoons and rivers.
Piauí:
- Parnaíba (PI): In the heart of the Parnaíba Delta, the city is the main attraction in Piauí on the Route of Emotions. Attractions include the Porto das Barcas, listed by IPHAN and transformed into a Historical and Cultural Center, Pedra do Sal Beach, and the biggest attraction is the flight of scarlet ibises.
- Ilha Grande (PI): One of the highlights of Ilha Grande is its cuisine. The city, in the center of the Delta, serves dishes based primarily on crab. Local attractions include the Porto dos Tatus, where boats depart for diving trips, and the Casa das Rendeiras, which handcrafts bobbin lace.
- Luís Correia (PI): In addition to four beautiful lagoons, Luís Correia boasts the largest number of beaches in Piauí. Another highlight of the city is its seaport, the only one in Piauí, and its seafood-based cuisine. The famous Penteada Tree, a tamarind tree that grew tilted due to the strong coastal winds, is also worth a visit.
- Cajueiro da Praia (PI): Barra Grande Beach is a small settlement once inhabited only by fishermen, well-known for its cuisine. This sandy village is a great invitation to disconnect from time and enjoy every moment, as well as enjoy the beautiful sunset. Its main activity is along the rivers in search of seahorses, cared for and preserved by the locals.
Ceará:
- Chaval (CE): The city is known as the “Stone City,” with beautiful landscapes and natural stone sculptures, notably the Nossa Senhora de Lourdes Cave Rock. The destination also boasts beautiful, nearly deserted beaches, such as Porto do Mosquito Beach.
- Barroquinha (CE): These are beautiful, wild, nearly untouched beaches, with dunes, coconut groves, rivers, lagoons, and untouched mangroves, creating beautiful, preserved natural landscapes. A highlight is Vila de Curimãs Beach, one of the most beautiful on the western coast of Ceará, with dunes and mangroves.
- Camocim (CE): This municipality on the route has the longest coastline, with approximately 60 kilometers of beaches stretching almost to Jeri. The diversity in this destination is immense, with lagoons, dunes, rivers, and beautiful beaches.
- Jijoca de Jericoacoara (CE): The main destination on the route in Ceará, Jericoacoara Beach is internationally recognized as one of the ten most beautiful in the world. The village of Jeri is the tourist base and offers many lodging options, from hostels to luxury hotels, as well as a varied cuisine.
- Cruz (CE): The city is located next to the National Park, on Preá Beach. Perfect for sports enthusiasts, it is considered the official kitesurfing beach, and is also a great spot for ecological tours, on foot or on horseback.
I did the route starting in São Luís and exiting through Fortaleza.
I recommend this route because it arrives at Lençóis first, increasing the chances of finding the lagoons fuller. This is the most tiring part, due to the travel time, leaving the beaches for later.
The nightlife is much better and livelier in Ceará.
How to organize a trip along the Rota das Emoções?
Before hitting the road, it’s essential to think about planning. The Rota das Emoções can be done in several ways, in different directions, and for varying lengths. Therefore, before deciding on the itinerary, it’s worth evaluating your available time, travel schedule, and budget.
A common question is whether it’s possible to do the Rota das Emoções independently. The answer is yes, but with some caveats. It’s entirely possible to organize accommodations, transportation between cities, and even the gastronomic aspects yourself. However, on tours within national parks, such as Lençóis Maranhenses, only licensed guides are allowed. Furthermore, in Jericoacoara, cars don’t reach the village; the final journey from Jijoca must be made in authorized vehicles.
Those considering renting a car should remember that you’ll likely pick up the vehicle in one state and return it in another, which can be quite expensive. Another important detail is that internet signal can be spotty in some stretches, so having an itinerary organized in advance can avoid headaches. The roads are generally in reasonable condition, but the signage isn’t always clear.
Another option is to do the Rota das Emoções (Route of Emotions) by combining transportation: buses, private or shared transfers, and boats for crossings. Many travelers also opt for domestic flights to save time. Those who don’t want to worry about anything can book a package deal with a travel agency, which includes transfers, guides, accommodation, and even ferries. Of course, this convenience comes at a higher cost.
In my case, I preferred independence. I did the Rota das Emoções on my own, booking transfers and local transportation whenever necessary. It was smooth, safe, and efficient.
Ways to book your Rota das Emoções trip.
There are three main ways to approach the itinerary:
- Package deal with an agency.
Ideal for those seeking convenience. All details are handled by the agency: transfers, tours, accommodation, and logistics.
Advantages: zero worries and plenty of comfort.
Disadvantages: higher price and less freedom to deviate from the traditional itinerary. - Private packages.
Ideal for those who want more flexibility but prefer not to worry as much about organization.
Advantages: Freedom to adjust stops and tours.
Disadvantages: High cost. - Independent Travel.
Perfect for adventurers who like to decide everything at their own pace.
Advantages: Complete freedom, lower costs, and flexible schedules and stops.
Disadvantages: You have to organize accommodations, tours, and transportation yourself.
How many days do you need on the Rota das Emoções?
The entire route can take 7 to 15 days. This depends on the intensity of the trip and how many cities you’ll be visiting.
- If you have less time, it’s best to choose two main destinations, such as Jericoacoara and Lençóis Maranhenses.
- Those with more time can explore smaller villages, deserted beaches, and cities off the beaten track.
Best time to hike the Route of Emotions.
The Route of Emotions can be hiked year-round, but the experience varies depending on the season:
- June to September: Best time to see the full lagoons in Lençóis Maranhenses. Incredible scenery, but more tourists.
- October to January: Lagoons begin to dry up, but the sun shines brightly, perfect for enjoying the beaches and adventure sports.
- February to May: Rainy season. The lagoons begin to fill up, but some stretches can be more challenging due to the mud.
How long to stay in Lençóis Maranhenses?
- 2 to 3 nights: Choose only one base, preferably Santo Amaro.
- 4 to 5 nights: You can combine two bases, such as Santo Amaro and Barreirinhas.
- 6 or more nights: You can include all three bases.
- 7 to 10 nights: Consider extending to Parnaíba or Barra Grande do Piauí.
- More than 12 nights: You can complete the Rota das Emoções without rushing.
Many packages offer the entire itinerary in 6 to 9 days, but the experience ends up being rushed.
The distances are long, and it’s important to remember that the first and last days are for arrival and departure.
Unique experiences on the Route of Emotions
The trip goes far beyond the postcards. Some moments make the itinerary unforgettable:
- Sleeping in beachside inns in fishing villages.
- Savoring fresh fish, crab, and artisanal tapioca.
- Talking to locals and hearing stories about local life.
- Kitesurfing in Jericoacoara or Atins.
- Admiring starry skies on nights without any artificial light.
Practical tips to make the most of it.
- Transportation: There are buses, vans, transfers, and boats throughout the route. Tours within the parks are only available in authorized vehicles, usually 4x4s.
- Money: Cards and PIX (Brazilian Paypal) work almost everywhere. I brought cash, but I almost always had trouble getting change. In some dunes, there’s even a “PIX Confidence” service: you pay later, when you have cell signal.
- Internet: There’s signal in all towns, including Atins and Santo Amaro. Connections can only be interrupted during tours in the dunes.
- Luggage: Bring light clothing, sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, sandals, a swimsuit, and a small bottle of water. Large suitcases can be a problem when traveling. Ideally, travel with a backpack or small luggage.
Which base to choose in Lençóis Maranhenses.
Each base has a different profile, and choosing the right one makes all the difference.
- Santo Amaro
It’s only 15 minutes from the park entrance. The lagoons in this region usually last longer, until October. The tours are more varied and less strenuous. The town is small and simple, with fewer lodging and nightlife options. - Barreirinhas
It’s the most structured base, with hotels, restaurants, and a lively nightlife. It also offers more transportation options from São Luís. The tours to the lagoons are longer, but there are many additional options, such as scenic flights and ATV tours. - Atins
A favorite among foreigners and kitesurfers. It has charming inns, a lively nightlife, and international cuisine. It’s the starting point for walking tours of the park. However, access is more complicated and prices are much higher.
Why take the Route of Emotions?
The Route of Emotions is much more than a tourist itinerary. It’s an experience that combines lush nature, Northeastern culture, adventure, and hospitality. Each stop offers a new setting, a new flavor, and a new sensation.
Whether relaxing in crystal-clear lagoons, being moved by the flight of scarlet ibises, hiking the dunes of Lençóis, or experiencing the laid-back atmosphere of Jeri, this route captivates and transforms. And that’s precisely what makes it one of the most fascinating itineraries in Brazil.
